Riders:
Class attire
Here's what you should wear for
Dressage classes, and when free riding. Thanks to
Jacki Moore (left) and Amanda Cunningham for
modeling!
For day-to-day work, it's fine to
wear t-shirts and work breeches. Save your show
stuff for shows and clinics!
On colder days, long-sleeved shirts,
vests, and sweaters are fine. Avoid pull-over
jackets and hoodies: if you need to take them off
as you warm up, you'll be asked to dismount first
-- pulling things off over your head can be quite
dangerous!
As for helmets, it's "every
time, every ride." A brain is a terrible
thing to waste, after all.

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Your ASTM-SEI approved
helmet must fit correctly. If you shake
your head rapidly, and the helmet shifts
or jiggles, it's too loose. Good helmets
have padded inserts that you can use to
adjust the fit. In addition, the chin
strap must be snug.
A properly fitting helmet
sits on the rider's forehead, with the rim
parallel to the ground. Hair should be
tied back or put up, or ideally contained
in a hairnet. Don't let bangs show under
the brim of your hat!
The image to the right shows
a hat that's tipped too far back off the
rider's forehead. In addition, her bangs
are showing, which is kind of cute if
you're 8 years old. . .
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Half-chaps and paddock boots
are a great option for daily riding.
They're usually less expensive than tall
boots, and hold up well to the rigors of
work in the barn, horse baths, mud and --
inevitably -- horse slobber and poop.
If your half chaps are
smooth leather (the ones in the photo are
sueded), and they match your paddock boots
(black or dark brown), they're even legal
in USEF/USDF competition up through First
Level. For shows, of course, your boots
would be polished to a high shine!
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When you're
riding with a dressage whip, the photo
to the right shows a good way to carry
it: tucked under your left arm.
This methods leaves both your hands free
for more important things, like
controlling your horse. In addition, the
whip won't swing and frighten your
horse.
When mounting, keep the whip in your
left hand, and shift it back to your
left hand before dismounting. Unless
you're an experienced trick rider, you
don't want to swing the whip across the
horse's croup and possibly frighten him
while mounting or dismounting!
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If you have a dressage whip and
spurs, feel free to bring them to the riding arena
with you. But don't carry a whip or wear spurs
without checking with Karen before you mount. If
you need to use a whip or spurs, and don't have
them with you, it's not a big deal. You can borrow
temporarily from the dressage department
collection.
A dressage whip is properly 120 cm
(47.2 inches) long. Avoid whips shorter than about
44 inches, and keep the color conservative. Sure,
a pink whip might be less likely to be misplaced,
but Karen will cringe every time you come in the
ring with it.
Here's an example of a perfectly
useful dressage whip for only $17 from SmarkPak.
Then, um, there are these.
"Soft Touch" spurs -- with a smooth,
rounded, freely rotating ball at the end -- are
particularly nice, and they're quite reasonably
priced: here's
a pair for $26. The larger the ball, and the
shorter the neck of the spur, the more gentle they
are (and we want gentle).
Prince of Wales spurs are acceptable
as well. Here's
a nice pair. The rubber-covering on the arms
of the spur are designed to prevent slipping and
protect the leather of your boots.
Spur straps can be either leather or
nylon. Either type works, so it really comes down
to personal preference.
(All links to outside
websites provided above were operational as of
August 14, 2015. Please let Karen know if you
run across dead links!)
Handy hint!
Because most dressage whips look the same, use a
piece of masking (or other) tape to label yours
with your name. Put the tape just below the knob
at the top of the whip handle. A labeled whip is
more likely to be returned to its owner.
Otherwise, it joins the whip collection in Karen's
office.
Label your spurs, as well. And your
helmet. And your gloves. And your Dressage Club
attire. Heck, just label everything!
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